Lana Gatto Silk Mohair “Cobweb” Sweater – Knitting Instructions
“Cobweb” sweaters have become very popular lately — and for good reason. They look elegant, delicate, and soft.
For a cobweb-style sweater, choose any mohair that is soft, non-itchy, and comfortable to wear against the skin. Good options include Gazzal “Super Kid Mohair”, Candy-Yarn Mohair, Lana Gatto Mohair, or Mondial Mohair. Both Lana Gatto and Mondial offer many types of mohair, so you’ll have a wide selection to choose from.
You’ll need approximately 3–4 balls of yarn for this sweater, depending on the size and your needle choice.
Materials:
- 3 balls Lana Gatto Silk Mohair
- Circular needles 4 mm (US 6) with 60 cm (24") cable
- Circular needles 5 mm (US 8) with 40 cm (16") and 60 cm (24") cables
- Stitch markers
- Scissors or thread cutters
- Measuring tape
This pattern is written for a bust circumference of 81 cm (XS).
Swatch and Gauge
Start by knitting a swatch to calculate your gauge. My gauge was 1.58 stitches and 2.3 rows per cm.
Starting from the Neckline
Begin from the neckline. You can take any measurement you like — for example, the circumference of your head with ease, or measure around the neck with the desired fit. I used 63 cm:
63 × 1.58 = 100 stitches.
We’ll have 4 raglan lines, 1 stitch each. Subtract 4 stitches (100 – 4 = 96 stitches). Divide by 3: 32 stitches for the front, 32 for the back, and 32 for both sleeves combined. Split the sleeve stitches in half.
To make the sleeves narrower, subtract 1.5 cm worth of stitches:
1.5 × 1.58 ≈ 2 stitches. Remove these from each sleeve and add them to the front and back.
Short Rows (Back Height)
Few cobweb sweaters have short rows, but I added them to my design — only along the sleeves. I divided the sleeve stitches into three sections for three turning points.
Cast On and Setup
With 4 mm needles (60 cm cable), cast on 101 stitches (including 1 for joining in the round). Join in the round and work 2–3 rows in stockinette.
Switch to 5 mm needles and place markers as follows:
- 31 back stitches, marker, 1 raglan stitch, marker
- 5 sleeve stitches, marker, 4 stitches, marker, 4 stitches, marker, 1 stitch
- Marker, 1 raglan stitch, marker, 37 front stitches, marker, 1 raglan stitch, marker
- 1 sleeve stitch, marker, 4 stitches, marker, 4 stitches, marker, 5 stitches, marker
- 1 raglan stitch, marker — back section and start of round.
Short Row Sequence
Make increases along raglan lines using yarn overs:
- Before raglan: reverse yarn over
- After raglan: regular yarn over
Knit yarn overs through the back loop on the next row to avoid holes.
Work the short rows, turning at the designated sleeve sections (points 1–6). Continue until there are 40 rows along the back. Then work 2 more full rounds without increases. My raglan lines measured 21–22 cm at this point.
You should have:
- 71 stitches each for front and back
- 50 stitches for each sleeve + 4 raglan stitches
Separating Sleeves and Body
Work across back stitches + raglan stitch. Place sleeve stitches on waste yarn. Cast on 3 underarm stitches. Work across front, place second sleeve stitches on waste yarn, cast on 3 underarm stitches, join to work in the round.
Body
Knit the body to the desired length (mine was 34 cm). Bind off using an I-CORD bind-off with 4 mm needles:
- Knit first stitch, without slipping it back, make a yarn over, and knit it again (3 stitches from 1).
- Slip 3 stitches from right needle to left needle, knit 2, then knit the third together with 1 body stitch.
Repeat, alternating decreases every other step, until all stitches are bound off.
Sleeves
Transfer sleeve stitches to 5 mm needles (40 cm cable).
Pick up a twisted stitch between sleeve and underarm, pick up 3 underarm stitches, and another twisted stitch on the other side. You’ll now have 55 stitches. Knit the sleeve without decreases to 34 cm (mine was 80 rounds). Bind off using the I-CORD bind-off as for the body, alternating decreases.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, block the sweater, and enjoy your delicate, elegant mohair “cobweb” sweater.
